Jokkmokk and Muddus
Monday
3rd of February 2015
I’m
lying on a bunk bed, on a night train, headed north. My final destination is the
town of Jokkmokk in Northern Sweden, Sápmi. It’s morning now. Listening to Eddie Vedder, and as always, the sound of his voice has me longing for
the wild. I’m lying on the top bunk closest to the ceiling – if I try to sit up
I’ll hit my head almost immediately. Better to lie down. A group of old ladies
are sitting down below, gossiping.
“Is
the girl up there still asleep, do you think?”
The
ladies down below are curious about me. I hopped onto the train sometime in the
middle of the night when they had already fallen asleep. Since then I’ve been
up here in my bunk bed, falling in and out of sleep. So far, all they really
know about me is that I look to be dressed for the outdoors. Travelling with large
hiking backpacks, handmade wooden skis, dressed in wool from top to toe – me
and my classmates make for an unusual sight. We are studying a one-year full-time course in wilderness and bushcraft skills at a school in Sweden called Sjöviks Folkhögskola.
In
the town of Gällevare we get off the train and switch to a bus which will take
us to our final stop – Jokkmokk.
I’ve
never seen so much snow before! Lining the sides of the road are mammoth mounds
of snow. A couple of reindeer run across the road, right in front of the bus.
We are in the north.
The
Jokkmokk Market opens on Thursday and has a more than 400 year unbroken
history. Thousands of people from all over the globe gather in the little town
of Jokkmokk for concerts, exhibitions and trade. We are staying just outside of
town, about a 30 minute walk into the town centre.
Our
plan is to stay six nights in Jokkmokk and then – on Monday next week – set out
on a skiing trip for 5 days in Muddus National Park. After that, one more night
in Jokkmokk before leaving on the 14th of February.
6th
of February
Walking
home in the evening I look up at the starry sky and wonder what northern lights
really look like. Hey Sky, can’t you show
me some?
Sky
answers me.
Great
spirals of light swirl across the sky right above me, moving like a flowing
river of light. The beauty put me under a spell, and I stood there watching for
who knows how long. Is there some magician sitting up there in the sky putting
on a show?
Wind in my hair, I feel part
of everywhere...
Eddies singing in my ears again, but this time I’m
looking up at birch tree branches and blue skies. It’s Wednesday, the 11th
of February, and I’m alone at my group’s campsite. I woke up this morning and
decided that today was going to be my day. A day just enjoy nature on my own.
The others left not so long ago for a skiing daytrip. I
think I’m going to surprise them with dinner when they come back later in the
evening.
Today is our 2nd day in Muddus national park –
or to be specific – we’re staying just outside the park by a stream. On Monday,
setting out to look for a base camp, we decided to try find a stream to camp
close to. Finding a stream in the middle of winter isn’t easy. But luckily we
managed to find the stream and can easily fetch water. Much easier than melting
snow and it tastes better too.
I really needed some alone time. Last week in Jokkmokk
was a lot of fun but intense – and so many people! I hadn’t realized that there
would be so many people during the market and from so many different countries.
A winter festival.
After
running around in Jokkmokk, buying donuts at the market and meeting lots of new
people, I was yearning for fresh forest air, blue skies, quiet and the freedom
of being far away from civilisation.
Ah…
now I am home.
Here
life is simple.
Well,
kind of simple. One thing I hadn’t really considered beforehand was the amount
of snow. I have known snow – yes – but not this much snow! If I hop off my skis
I’ll sink about waist-deep into the snow. You can’t do anything without skis
out here. We realized early on that paths would make things easier. One path to
the stream for fetching water. One path to the number one hole, and one path to
the number two hole.
I
put my skis on, grab a saw and set off to look for firewood. It’s such a
beautiful day. The birds are singing. It almost feels like spring is on its
way. Half an hour later I return to camp with a couple of stocks, ready for the
axe. While collecting kindling I slip on my skis and fall over flat on my back.
The snow is soft to land on. It strikes me that I don’t have to get up. It’s
nice just lying here looking up at the tree tops and the blue sky. I picture
myself from an outsider’s view – lying there in the middle of the woods, my
hands full with kindling – and start to laugh. I must look pretty stupid. But
who cares?
Thursday 14th
of February
It's funny
thinking back at how nervous I was about this trip. Mostly I was afraid of the
cold up north, and of course it is important to have respect for nature –
especially up here in the north where the winters are extremely cold.
But now I
feel calm and happy. It’s amazing how quickly your body grows used to the cold
after a while.
Today we
skied into Muddus National Park and spent the day in a beautiful forest of
ancient pine trees. After skiing all day we were all exhausted. Coming home to
base camp, lighting a fire and putting a kettle of coffee on to boil is one of
the simple joys of being out here in the wild. I love feeling tired from top to
toe. Tired, and so full of life at the same time.
It's colder
tonight – around 14 minus degrees. In the evening, after drinking tea, my
tea bag freezes into my wooden mug after leaving it for 10 minutes. I sit with
my mug over the fire for a while in an attempt to de-freeze it.
Keeping
warm is a challenge in this cold. Especially hands and feet. Thankfully I
packed three pairs of gloves – I’ve had good use for all of them during this
trip.
One of the
best things during this adventure has been sitting together around the fire,
talking - and especially listening to Tobias reading the book "Super.
Naiv" by Erlend Loe. Every night we send the talking stick (or a
spoon or whatever's handy) around in the circle and share something with
the group.
13th
of February
Friday.
Back in Jokkmokk and eating pizza at the local pizzeria. I think I am in
heaven…
After
taking a hot shower, I get a big surprise. A surprise birthday party!! Everyone
is singing happy birthday around a table overflowing with candles and ice cream.
Best
day ever.
14th
of February
Skiing
out there in the middle of nowhere was a piece of cake. Something none of us
had even considered turned out to be the biggest challenge yet. Getting
everyone – with all our backpacks, skis and pulkas full with tents, camp gear
and food – from the horse stable to the bus station in Jokkmokk.
We
decide to ski into town via a trail in the forest. Unfortunately, after a few
days of plus degrees and sunshine, the snow has melted and frozen into a thick
layer of ice. It’s extremely slippery. Every few metres someone falls over.
Normally it takes about 30 minutes to walk to Jokkmokk. Luckily our bus doesn’t
leave until after lunch – because getting to the bus station took us over 2
hours!
After
falling over on the hard ice over ten times I start to get really pissed off. I
was furious! Pissed off at the stupid ice. Sick of skiing. Every muscle in my
body aching. To make matters even better – I fell over while sliding down a
slippery hill of ice and landed hard on my tail-bone. The pain hit me like a
thousand knives. Have you ever hurt your tail-bone? Don’t. Seriously, it hurts
like hell!
When
we finally made it to the bus station I was ecstatic. I don’t know if I have
ever been so happy to see a bus station! We even had time over to go get a
coffee.
15th
of February
There
is a first time for everything. Today is the first time I have ever woken up on
a bunk bed, on a night train, on my birthday.
23
years old! Yippeee!
When
we arrive at Uppsala station we eat breakfast in the sunshine. Mattis buys me a
birthday breakfast – coffee and a croissant.
Almost
home. These past two weeks will be something to remember for a long time.
Thank you to my room-mate Amanda for the photos!
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